WONDER AND THE WILD
Exploring the Old Ghost Road with a toddler in tow
Words: Rhys Seward
The Old Ghost Road is the best ride in New Zealand. I’ve long contended this, which surprises those who know I’m more a fan of the gnarly stuff. But the OGR is unique. Serving up 85km of epic scenery, it takes you deep into the mountains of Kahurangi National Park in a way that’s usually only possible on foot. In the decade since it opened it’s become a pilgrimage for riders and trampers alike. This time, we were riding it as a family—my wife, Muriel, our two-and-a-half-year-old son Moss, and me.
Moss has been riding shotgun with me since he was 18 months old. The front-mounted seat tucks him into my arms, where we share the ride, the views, and the chatter of his curious little brain. It’s an intimate setup—his hands gripping his mini bars, my arms wrapped around him, both of us locked into conversation. This trip, his world would expand in the best way possible: four days of big mountains, wild rivers, and huts perched in the clouds.
We needed perfect weather. A wet or freezing toddler behind the bars for hours isn’t an option. A West Coast monsoon hit the day before we started, but as we stood at the Lyell trailhead watching our van disappear toward Seddonville, the skies were clearing. The forecast was golden. We were all in.
“This trip, his world would expand in the best way possible: four days of big mountains, wild rivers, and huts perched in the clouds.“
Day 1: Up through the mossy beech
The first climb to Lyell Saddle Hut is classic South Island West Coast—mossy beech forest, filtered light, and waterfalls in full flow after the storm. With my loaded trail bike, 12L Aeroe rear bags, a handlebar roll stuffed with two sleeping bags, and Moss up front, I was pushing 60kg. I’d swapped to a 30t chainring for the climbs, and I was glad I had.
Moss had no complaints. Every 45 minutes, we stopped for snacks, toilet breaks, and extra layers as we climbed higher. Pīwakawaka hopped along beside us, and we picked our way over slips still shifting after the recent downpour. In the goblin forest, Moss started a game: he’d pick a word, and I’d spell it for him. “How do you spell ‘chocolate egg’?” he asked. I laughed and obliged.
At Lyell Saddle, we unpacked into our private sleepout nestled in the trees. Muriel and I watched as Moss spent the evening chasing thieving weka, who’ve mastered unzipping bike bags. Before bed, we roasted mini marshmallows on a twig over a candle. As we tucked Moss into his sleeping bag, he asked what we’d be riding tomorrow. He was all in, too.
Day 2: Into the high country
The morning was crisp, so we took our time enjoying a sunny breakfast at the main hut before easing into the climb. We spotted a big black billy goat on the trail, which sparked a deep dive into the other creatures that might be lurking in the bush. Hopes were high for a giant Powelliphanta snail sighting.
The climb to the ridgeline is steep, but the views are worth it. From the shelter on the ridge, we looked out to the Tasman Sea on one side and the Southern Alps on the other. Moss ran ahead, a robin hopping alongside him, before scrambling back onto the bike for the final push up to Heaven’s Door. Then came the first proper descent down to Ghost Lake. “Faster!” Moss yelled. We let it rip.
Our sleepout at Ghost Lake sat on the edge of a cliff, the window framing endless Kahurangi wilderness. We watched the sunset in silence, the kind that comes after a full day in the mountains.
Day 3: Big miles and big forest
At sunrise, we looked down from our perch at a sea of cloud stretching below. The downhill into Stern Valley was in prime condition—new track blasted through the granite replacing the old hike-a-bike stairs. Moss whooped through the switchbacks, and we rolled into the valley for lunch.
The climb through the Boneyard was hot and Moss got off the bike to roll small boulders down the scarp. Reaching the pass we dropped into the Mokihinui River basin, winding through towering podocarps, bright red and blue fungi dotting the forest floor. We counted mushrooms, dodged weka, and cruised along the final stretch to Specimen Point. Hot and sweaty from a long day, we waded into Specimen Creek to refresh, while Moss amassed a trove of quartz “jewels”.
Day 4: The home stretch
The final morning was mostly river and rock, weaving along ledges carved into the gorge. Moss reached out to brush the overhanging cliffs as we rolled past. On the swing bridges, he took delight in hurling stones into the creeks below. As we hit the last climb before Seddonville, he asked which hut we’d be staying at tonight. He was gutted to hear we were finishing the ride.
At the Rough And Tumble Lodge, we capped the trip the only way you should: hot pizza and a swim in the Mokihinui River.
A mate who works at the lodge told me quite a number of people who upon reaching the end immediately start scheming ways to head back in. After four days of family miles through New Zealand’s most spectacular backcountry, I knew exactly what they meant.